The End of Camino

With great sadness we've ended our Camino. My feet betrayed us. The rest of us could have carried on, but my feet could not. I've dealt with Plantar Fasciitis for a long time, but this level of severity was new to us. 

Our last albuerque had a Knights Templar theme. The owner, Vicente was very kind. He gave me hugs and told me his family has all passed away and the Peregrinos are his family now. He arranged for a friend to bring us to the hospital in Logrono. His last words to me as he hugged me one last time was that the Camino is magical. 

I struggle with understanding what our Camino lesson is. We started this Camino because we wanted to walk it together while Robin's Huntington's Disease would still let him. We end it with me having the "disability". Perhaps I needed to learn what it is to feel so helpless and have your body betray you, much like Robin feels with Huntington's. Perhaps Robin's lesson is to understand the perspective of the one who must set aside his own abilities to help someone who is unable. We've learned a lot about being patient with each other. 

We walked around the blocks surrounding our hotel - the extent of my abilities. We have spent most of our day in bed recovering. 

We walked over 143 km on the Camino de Santiago. It is incomplete according to the traditional Way, so we must find a way to make our own closure. We are considering going to Muxia to drop off our rocks that we've carried with us to deposit at the Cruz de Ferro. Then we will be in new territory - on vacation with no plans whatsoever. We don't know what tomorrow will bring. One of the big lessons of Camino is that you never know what the day will bring and all you can do is put one foot in front of the other and keep on going.  Ultreya...

Camino Day 9 - April 20 Easter.

Today was another challenging day for us. My feet have been steadily getting worse each day. They reached a peak today. The last km was excruciating. I could only take one tiny step at a time. When we finally made it to our albuerque, I couldnt get out of bed for dinner. I was stuck in bed for three hours before I could stand again. After walking to the bathroom and back, the pain started to return. 

We've made the critical decision to go to the hospital tomorrow. We're very sad about it because we really wanted to do this Camino from start to finish and my ability to do so now hangs in the balance. 

It was a difficult day, but still beautiful. 

Camino Day 8 - April 19

Never assume you know how your day will go. I said today would be an easy day. It was just under 11k. It wasn't all uphill. Surely it would be an easy day for us. We started out with rain, then cold, then more rain, then hot, then rain and finished super steep uphill and super thick mud. We took a wrong turn, but thankfully didn't get too far before we could tell something was wrong. We almost took another wrong turn, but a woman pulled over before we took more than a few steps and turned us around. On the bright side, we finished the day early so we can rest our sore bones!

So the lessons: Never assume how your day will go  All you can know is that you will start your day and take one step after another. If you take a wrong turn, it's never too later to turn around and get straightened out, and maybe even someone unexpectedly will change your course.

Highlight of the day - the wine fountain!!! A monestary established the wine fountain for pilgrims. The sign says that if you want to arrive at Santiago with strength and vitality, drink the grand wine from the fountain and toast to your happiness! We used our shells (symbols of pilgrims) as cups.

I've got top bunk tonight!

Camino Day 7 - April 18

Today was a good day! Not a tear shed! The walk was shorter and easier than yesterday (about 18k today, versus 24k yesterday). 

We left Puenta La Reina and crossed over the queen's bridge on our way out of town. We strolled through beautiful and colorful farmlands! We climbed into some pine-filled hills that almost reminded us of hiking in the Chisos Mountains of Big Bend. Soon after that we saw a man with a hat from the Starlight Theater. He owns land in Terlingua, TX. Small world!

We passed through some towns we loved like Mañeru linked with the Knights Templar and the Order of St. John, and Cerauqui, equally as amazing. When we passed out of the arch to exit Cerauqui, we began walking on one of the best preserved Roman roads on the Camino. 

We passed the Guardia Civil on the trail today. They patrol the area watching for peregrinos in need, much like the Knights Templar looked after pilgrims in the past. 

Tonight we stay in Villatuerta. We have a private room at the alberque and it's beautiful! 

Today we felt a lot of hope. Previously I was worried about how difficult it has been. My plantar fasciitis has been really painful, but I'm learning to cope with it better. We are keeping our distances shorter and take plenty of rests, which helps Robin's back too. My pack is perfect. I thought my back would hurt over time,  but my pack fits so well that I barely notice it. 

Time to relax in our comfy bed!

Camino Day 6 - April 17, 2025

Today we walked from Pamplona to Puenta La Reina (about 24k). I'm the biggest baby in the world sometimes. I cried when going up hill today because so many people were cruising by making it look so easy. It was so hard for me. When we made it to the top of Alto de Perdon today I cried again because I made it and it had been so hard. By the end of the day my plantar fasciitis was KILLING me! Even with all the tough times there were many beautiful moments. 

Alto de Perdon or Hill of Forgiveness is one of the highlights of Camino. It is a tough climb up and a steep rocky climb down. It is a monument dedicated to pilgrims who walk the Camino. It's located at the top of a hill surrounded by windmills. We were very close to the windmills and could hear the whooshing  

This morning we got reservations for tonight, only to find out later that the place thought we were making reservations at their restaurant and they had no rooms left. We were just a few towns away from stopping and now we had nowhere to go. We were in a restaurant at the time grabbing a bite to eat, and a lady that worked there helped us get one of the last rooms in several towns. It has a jacuzzi!!!!!!  We're going to eat and then we're going to sit in the jacuzzi! 🫠😋

Camino Day 5 - April 16

Today was our rest day. We walked around Pamplona and enjoyed the historic area by the cathedral. We spent time in the hotel resting but when we went to make reservations for the rest of the week we realized how booked it is everywhere for Easter! We've made reservations up until Easter EXCEPT for tomorrow night. We don't know where we will be able to stay tomorrow! It's been stressful figuring out where to lay our heads, in addition to worrying about the pain of our bodies. I was given bad advice that we wouldn't have trouble finding a place to stay during Easter week. A lot of worries and fears today. 

Camino Day 4 - April 15

Today we walked from Zubiri to Pamplona. Uphill, downhill, a little rain, a lot of mud. We're exhausted. We have all of Pamplona around us and we’re just sitting in bed ordering room service. We ache badly - my feet and Robin's back.

Everyone passes us on the trail. We're so slow. Even the slugs are passing us. The slugs are my mascot! 🐌 So many people just wiz by making it look so easy, but we are suffering. It's a real struggle for us. When we pass a non-peregrino and they wish us Buen Camino sometimes I have to fight back the tears because it's nice knowing they're cheering us on. I was in tears tonight as soon as we got to the hotel room because my feet hurt so badly. 

We are seeing amazing things though! I know it will all be worth it. I just wish we'd get our Camino Legs soon!

Camino Day 3 - April 14

Today was a day of wonders and trials and tribulations. We felt stronger even though the day before was so difficult. 

We passed a field full of pregnant horses and one of them gave birth right before our eyes! It was struggling so the rancher came along and pulled the baby out. Then we got to watch as the baby struggled to take its first steps. It was an amazing thing to stumble across. 

All and all it had been a great day. The last bit coming down into Zubiri is known for being treacherous - almost as hard as coming over the Pyrenees. We walked through hail and lightning twice! We were ok with the hail, but the lightning was scary. Fortunately it passed quickly. It truly was treacherous, but we were in good spirits. Then we arrived in Zubiri only to find no beds available anywhere. We didn't care how expensive. It was too far to the next town and too late to walk further. After 2 hours of searching, we were on the verge of sleeping in an alley when we found a bed and breakfast that had a no-show. We got a private room. And now we sleep!💤 🛌 

Camino Day 2 - April 13

We crossed over the top of the pass through the Pyrenees today. Yesterday was steeper, but we really hadn't recovered from yesterday and today still had a lot of inclines and it was a longer day. We're super tired. We didn't even take any pics of this amazing monastery where we're staying because we were so tired that we just wanted to get there. We got a couple pics after dinner, but the view coming in was the best. It may be the largest albuerque on the Camino. Tons of people here. 
We're in bunk beds tonight.  Robin got the top bunk. Nobody wants the top because your sore muscles have to climb up  

Yesterday was beautiful weather. Today was drizzling and really foggy. It gave the Pyrenees a mysterious quality. Amazingly beautiful! Painful day, but wonderful!

Camino Day 1 - April 12, 2025

Today was supposed to be one of the hardest days. It was really really challenging! We climbed about 1600 meters in just over 8 km. That's very steep and I literally could only take 20-40 steps at a time during the steepest parts. Robin did great, and patiently waited on me. We made it to Orisson for lunch which gave me just enough energy to make it the last km to Borda. Our host greeted us and said, "Oh you're looking for Borda? That's 2 km further". Haha - such a comic! I was ready to sleep in the grass, but Borda greeted us and gave us food and shelter. Our host used to be a chef so our meal was amazing. This is a beautiful hostel. We are developing a Camino family and starting to see people repeatedly. The dinners each evening are social events, which is normally trying for an introvert like me, but they have been lovely. 

Tomorrow we have just as much elevation to cover, but over 12 km and then we go downhill to our albuerque. Today was beautiful weather. Tomorrow it will start out rainy and foggy and cold. It's pouring down now. Goodnight Basque Pyrenees!

Camino Day 0 - April 11, 2025 

Today we explored the small French Basque town St. Jean Pied de Port. We ate Basque food and really enjoyed the Basque Cider!🍺 

Exploring the Citadel that overlooks the town, we saw many snails representing us! Slow and steady with backpacks! 🐌 

We also got our first stamps in our pilgrim credentials and will get at least one stamp each day. We have one last night in our Albuergue before we begin walking!

A. The Decision to Camino

During Thanksgiving 2023, I (Audrey) mentioned that when the day comes that Robin passes away I was considering walking the Camino de Santiago to disappear from the world for a while. Much to my surprise and delight, Robin said that he wanted to walk it too. And so an idea was born and a decision made!

We already had plans to vacation in the Yucatan that spring so we decided our Camino would begin in spring 2025. This gave us over a year to prepare for our epic adventure!

B. Preparing for Camino

With over a year to prepare we are about as ready as we can be. Here are some of the things we did to prepare.

1. Read about the Camino de Santiago online and selected our route - the Camino Frances, which starts in St. Jean Pied de Porte, France. 
2. Joined Facebook groups dedicated to the Camino, and asked a lot of questions and received a lot of wise advice from experienced peregrinos (people who walk the Camino). 
3. Upgraded our clothing and backpacking gear. Our lightweight backpacks and shoes were most important!
4. Bought and studied Brierley's guidebooks.
5. Developed a walking plan allowing us to gradually increase our walking distance and backpack weight. We're at 24k with our packs half full. 
6. We had our feet professionally fitted at Fleet Feet. After some trial and error, Robin settled on the trail running shoes he will wear. I am still trying to decide from among the 5 or so pairs in which I've been training. 

C. Camino Motivation

Our chosen route is the Camino Frances, made famous by the Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez film, The Way. Whenever we wanted a little extra inspiration we watched the movie. We don't need much motivation though because we are super excited about this trip! 

We started planning circa Thanksgiving 2023. Today is December 18, 2024. We fly to France on April 8, 2025. I've read the Brierley's guides twice and have highlighted useful parts. We're in the home stretch of our preparations!

D. May 26, 2025 - Minus two weeks and counting down!

We've researched the Camino Frances, we've trained, our bags are packed and we're ready to go! As we get closer we're starting to get more excited, but a little nervous too. Robin is worried that maybe we've forgotten something. I'm worried about the physical hardship. In the past year I've had pains in my foot, my back, my knees, and my hip. The foot pain from my plantar fasciitis was the only one of real significance, but any of them could flare up. We feel confident that we can do it though!

Our plan has us departing from Texas on April 8th. We arrive in Paris on April 9th where we'll spend the afternoon and evening walking the streets and enjoying the sights. Our hotel is within view of the Eiffel Tower. On the 10th we take a train to St. Jean Pied de Port, in French Basque lands, where we check into our first albuerque (pilgrim's hostel). We'll acclimate for two days and get used to not being at sea level. We start walking on April 12th if the pass over the Pyrenees isn't closed due to snow. We plan to get halfway to the top on the first day and make it over the top on day 2 and into Spanish Basque land. By the end of May, over 500 miles and several rest days later, we should arrive at the Atlantic Ocean. We earn our Compostelas (certificates) in Santiago, finish our Camino in Finisterre, and begin life anew in Muxia. Then we'll spend a few days resting and exploring Robin's ancestral homelands of A Coruña (Galician lands) and Bilbao (Basque lands). 

Counting down the days!!!

Travel Day

Today we put on our Camino clothes - clothes we'll be wearing for the next two months (alternating with just a couple of other pants and shirts). 

Our backpacks were carry-ons. We were hoping that we could leave our trekking poles in our packs, but knew that many people check theirs because you're not supposed to carry-on trekking poles. They cleared security!!!! We don't have to check anything and there is no fear of our gear getting lost. Whew!

We're sitting in DFW airport now, trying to decide how to spend our single afternoon/evening in Paris. 

April 9, 2025 Paris

We arrived at our hotel just before noon. We were very jet lagged, but went out immediately to do a grand walking tour to see as much as we could in our short time. Any time we sat down we were struggling to stay awake. Favorite parts of the day were sitting at a cafe along the Seine watching the people and doing the same in a park by the Louvre. 

We're back at the hotel and looking forward to a long sleep! 😴

April 10 - Train from Paris to St. Jean Pied de Port.

Today we rode the train from Paris to SJPDP. It was a beautiful train ride (once we figured out which train/seat was ours). We are now set up for the night in our first albuergue. We had a pilgrims dinner tonight eating family style with the other peregrinos. 

We have eye masks and ear plugs and we’re ready to sleep.